Sōko-yama (356m)

This hike starts and finishes at Mitaki-dera Temple (the mountain is also known as Mitaki-yama) which is a delight to visit at any time of the year, but particularly beautiful in Autumn when the stunning leaves add make this already very atmospheric oasis of calm extra special.

The loop from the trailhead just inside the temple entrance up to the summit, along a ridge, through a wonderful bamboo forest and back down through the temple with its three waterfalls and many statues can take 2.5 hours at a leisurely pace; I have whipped around in an hour or so, but I don't recommend it!

Access
Mitaki Station is two stops (8min) from Hiroshima JR Station on the Kabe Line. It's a 15-20min walk from the station to Mitaki-dera. Go left from the station, take the first right (at the railway crossing) and start up the hill. When the road forks at a temple, take the right fork, follow around the playground on the right and continue up the hill. After passing some tea houses you reach the temple car park and entrance.

The hike

A few meters beyond the temple entrance is the Tahōtō Pagoda (pictured above), a National Important Cultural Asset, which was moved from its original location in Wakayama prefecture in 1951 as a gift to provide solace to the souls of the victims of the A-bomb. The trailhead is just past here (Picture 1). A stone marker (Picture 2), which can be quite easy to miss, is engraved in Japanese, points the way to two courses (the mountain is referred to as Mitaki-yama here). Course A (to the left) takes you up through the temple grounds, through the bamboo forest and onto the summit of Sōko-yama (1900m). Course B, the right fork, takes you 1100m to the summit and runs past the side of the building you can see in Picture 1. I prefer Course B with its progression from the steep ascent rewarded with the views from the summit, to the wooded ridge and through the bamboo forest, finishing with the walk down through the temple grounds. If you are a resident, this is a walk that you can over a over, so try both routes (and explore some of the other paths) to mix it up and/or find your favorite.

Picture 1 Picture 2

So, continuing along Course B, the flagstoned path soon gives way to a narrow, but well maintained trail. Following the signs for SSōko ko-yama brings you to a trail junction after 20-25 minutes (Picture 3); go left passing a electricty pylon. The trails dips, but then starts to climb more steeply up to a big rock from which you can get your first good views (Picture 4). At the summit, you'll find more views (depending on the weather) and the latest red pine tree.

Picture 3

Picture 4

After the steep climb up, the soft, wooded run along the ridge feels great. As you start to descend there are a couple of paths that break off from the trail to Mitaki-dera. There are lots of signs - they are in Japanese, but if you make a note or carry a print out of the characters for Mitaki-dera (see below) it's hard to go wrong. About half an hour from the summit you get your last great views near another pylon, just before the trail takes you into the beautiful bamboo forest (Picture 5). The sudden change in scenery, and the peace and serenity of this stretch is quite breathtaking - epscially if you find yourself here alone.

Picture 5 ©embucher1982

A large concrete erosion control dam that spans the path indicates that the end of the trail is near and you are soon deposited at the upper end of Mitaki-dera. The walk back down through the temple grounds is a wonderful way to end a fantastic hike.

Japanese place name guide

• More local walks
• More about Mitaki-dera (includes some great photographs)