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Bangkok? Nah, too humid, dirty, crowded with perverts on sex tours, and the pollution...
If this is your image of the Thai capital, then think again. For those who have an adventurous
spirit, and are willing to endure occasional discomfort to reap the greater enjoyment, Bangkok
is a great place to lose yourself in for a few days. Whether you're on a stopover, kicking
around before you head south to the islands or north to the mountains, or you just feel
like a cheap break from life in Japan, it has more than enough charms to keep you occupied.
Wats on the river?
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Bangkok is a city of contrasts. Saffron robed monks and brightly colored temples vs businessmen and
modern tower blocks; supercool youngsters decked out head-to-toe in designer gear vs kids in rags
begging on the streets. The Chao Praya River, long an essential transport artery, cuts through the heart
of Bangkok, and the river taxis and boats that endlessly crisscross, provide the ideal means to
get acquainted with these contrasts.
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The river taxi that runs the length of the river costs next to nothing, avoids the crowded
roads, and drops you within a stone's throw of many of the city's most impressive temples (or
Wats). This is no tour boat, the people of Bangkok rely heavily on these taxis to get
around and they can be crowded, but it's a great place to feel the pulse of Bangkok life,
and watching stragglers fling themselves onto the boat just as it's pulling away is great
fun.
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My favorite stops along the river were The Grand Palace,
The Temple of the Dawn (Wat Arun )which looms up on the right when cruising South
and The Temple of the Reclining Buddha (Wat Po). The backpacker ghetto of
Banglamphu, the National Gallery, Museum and Theatre, and the GPO are also all easy to get to
from the river.
If visiting Wats or the Grand Palace remember to bring 'modest' clothing that covers
shoulders, chest, knees, and toes. If you are not properly dressed the staff at the gate
will provide you with some very ugly clothes to cover you up that a multitude of other indecent,
sweaty tourists have worn before you. I was initially irritated to discover that wrap
around skirts and sarongs are also not acceptable, but then tried to remember that I was
entering a place of worship as an outsider. This made me feel less annoyed about following
the rules, but once the staff had finished with me I still looked like a bag lady. I exchanged
furtive sympathetic looks with similarly clad tourists exchanged while around the palace.
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If the Bangkok nightlife allows you to drag yourself out of bed before dawn, a boat trip
to the Wat Sai floating morning market is worthwhile. The actual flower market has
become a bit of a tourist trap (I think there were more tourists than shoppers and sellers).
But the journey to and from the market along the small canals khlongs is a real
eye-opener - a whole world, invisible from the roads that have largely replaced the canals,
awakening.
(River tours can be arranged at travel agencies and the main river ferry stations)
A kickin' night out
Once you've got the high-brow stuff out of the way, you can move onto enjoying
Bangkok's vibrant pop-culture. Thailand's hugely popular national sport Muay Thai or Thai
Boxing can be seen every night of the week at one of the two main stadiums in Bangkok
Rajdamnoen and Lumphini Stadiums. Ticket prices range from around $5-$25 depending on
how close to the ring you are and who is fighting. Two skinny guys kicking the crap out of
each other may not be your idea of entertainment, but similar to going to a baseball game here in Japan,
checking out the crowd and feeling the electric atmosphere is quite an experience.
Indoor Bangkok
If you find yourself in Bangkok during the rainy season, you might want to catch up on
your movies. There are heaps of cinemas showing the latest Hollywood and
international blockbusters (many clustered around Siam Center), and when compared to
movie prices here in Japan they are a real deal at about $2. Don't get too comfortable
during the
previews though as you'll be expected to stand for a tribute to the king just before the
main feature starts.
If you want a bit of exercise, how about a bit of Disco Bowling on RCA Avenue after 9pm: glow-in-the-dark
bowling balls, pounding music, lasers and lots of disco balls.
If the rain doesn't let up, you can avail yourself of the services of some of Asia's
best tattoo artist. Or if that is too long-lasting a souvenir for you, and the 24 hour computer
game shops around Siam Center don't get your blood pumping, why not try a Thai massage.
A wonderful healing experience that involves having your muscles first stretched
and then kneaded like dough. Wat Po is the most famous place to get a massage in Bangkok, and courses are also
available for those who want to inflict Thai massage on their nearest and dearest back home.
Thailand is just as, if not more, famous for the "wet massage", where you pay a young lady
"masseur" less for massage, than to be your own personal human louffa. Many (men) who
swear by it. One satisfied customer told me that it is "soapy-clean, non-penetrative
bliss." If you do want a bit more than mere surface friction, be warned that there is a
high incidence of HIV/AIDS in Thailand (800,000 plus HIV carriers at last count), not to
mention that prostitution is a business which violates and exploits the people who become sex workers: poor men,
women and children.
Meals, deals, booze and ping-pong thrills
Bangkok is a food lovers' dream. Great Thai food can be had all over town. You can get some
of the best food along the street for just 30B-70B($1-$2) per person. If Thai food isn't for
you, or fancy a change, check out Chinatown,
Little India (in Parurat near Chinatown),
Little Arabia (Sukhumvit Soi 11), or Little
Lebanon (Sukhumvit Soi 3). The many cheap places to eat in Banglamphu cater to backpackers
- so this is the place to fill up on falafel, humus, veggie burgers and pancakes. Sidewalk
stalls serving good seafood set up in Silom at around 8pm.
Bamglamphu also has lots of stores selling clothes, CDs, souvenirs, and fake ID
cards. There's plenty of cheap tat here, but the dedicated can find quite a few gems.
Good deals and eats can also be had at Patpong's night market - this is the place to stock up on
"Rolexes" for your mates.
Clubs and sex-shows rub shoulders along the small Sois in Patpong and Sukhumvit.
There's a string of clubs along Soi 4 (Rama IV Road). It's a popular area with young Thais,
and the small street is full of people sitting at tables, drinking, and people watching.
Most places along here have no entry charge, so popping in and out of the different clubs
is no problem (expect to pay a huge 100B for a beer). The music is slightly different in
each club, with hip-hop, trance and house prevailing.
Nearby Soi 2 is has many gay clubs
, playing more upbeat happy house and dance music.
Bangkok is of course renowned for strip and sex show venues. A trip to one of the sex
shows has almost become a "must-do" for tourists along with the Grand Palace. That said it
is probably best not to go to these places alone as there have recently been several
cases of people having their drinks spiked, and the ever annoying sudden change in
the entry price once you sit down.
You can read all about what you can get in Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza on websites dedicated to
promoting the skin trade.
If you want to check it out, but don't know where to go, there are plenty of tuk-tuk and
taxi drivers would be more than happy to take you to a sex show (often with Karaoke for
some reason) where they can get a commission.
During the tourist season Kao San Road area is lively every night of the week. The
area behind the temple at the end of Kao San Rd there is is nicer than the main road
with some nice hotels, bars and restaurants which get a good crowd.
Passing through here you come to a larger road that is parallel to the with a cluster of
trendy, modern Thai restaurants and bars that attract a friendly, young Thai crowd.
Bangkok is a place that becomes more and more interesting the deeper you delve into it.
On this trip (and in this article) I've only scratched the surface and I can't wait to
get back and take another plunge.
Joy
Next: Bangkok Travel Tips | Back to top
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