Festival at Aso, May 2004

Starting on May 1st each year and carrying on through about 5 days of weekend and national holidays, it's an oasis of bliss in the shadow of a volcano, hidden in a field while nearby, swarms of tourists seeking nothing more exciting than a crowded onsen, big painted cows and omiyage shops queue up in their cars along the pretty roads, unaware of the tented village of pipe-smoking sweet people over the next hill.

This year was made especially memorable by the storm that hit on the Monday night- it rained heavily for a ridiculously long time and the high winds brought down the signature bamboo construction over the stage as well as the teepee/ shrine to musicians behind, and many people's tents. Homeless festival-goers turned cheerful refugees waded (ganbaru) around the waterlogged field in the morning surveying the damage and seeking a handout of coffee and better shelter than a mouldy van or damp sleeping bag. Some people bailed at this point, spirits dampened along with everything else they owned, if they could get their car out of the trenches, but the next day brought sun, a drying out, a structural resurrection, all the planned music and a tug of war competition; a spirited revival as though a small hurricane had not just laid waste to the festival.

There was live music on every day from sunset to about 11pm. Some of the usual festival frolicking bands and performers were there this year, eg Ozone Baby, Seikatsu Circus, Aqua Bomb, Dada Child, the spellbindingly gorgeous belly dancer whose smile could cure diseases, and a range of cute, weird, jam-rocky, and percussive acts. It seemed that the live music was really just a warm-up for when the people took over though- I felt strongly this year that it was a very participatory festival; all brought drums, bells, shakers, voices, fire, beauty, stories, shimmying bodies and we even had a woman freestyling round the campfire and a morning magic show by 2 suteki guys dressed in what I called Nepali Shepherd Chic.

I felt this year the usual special energy around the night campfires was particularly sparky with many fire-poi spinners, drummers and rain-defying, cheering, cartwheeling, storm-braving, raving, dreadlocked folks, and while I'm rhyming, the Aso experience can be perhaps more concisely expressed like that than in review style....There was djembe pounding, talent abounding, mud sticking, hacky kicking, free kids running, sunshine coming?, koi flying, poi trying, flags flapping, girls rapping, everyone singing, cowbells dinging, puddle wading, bongos fading, firewood gathering, onsen lathering, fire swooshing, car pushing, nothing's dry, feeling high, out of luck, teepee's fucked, kitten stroking, ganja toking, energy giving, outside living, good looking curry cooking, fires warming, lazy morning, rain pouring, who's snoring?, Mon-Pan munching, conbini lunching, belly dancing, a little romancing, ad lib until the embers catch again tomorrow..........

Cute babies of various species were well represented, little kittens, puppies and people, and while the grown-up dogs fought fiercely, the grown-up people lived remarkably harmoniously and generously, with no evidence of, eg, Japanese vs. foreign clashes or other aggro. It was a time for old friends and new to meet, for city folks to get their feet dirty in the rich black volcanic mud and say hello to cows. Quite a lot of Hiroshima people were there.

How to get there

The festival can be found about 35km from Kumamoto. Head from Kumamoto east on Route 57 and (not far from 'Aso Farmland' onsen and omiyage citadel), in Akamizu village (also the nearest railway station) turn right opposite the Eneos garage, (festival signposted at this juncture) and drive or hitchhike up the winding lane past the golf course, then cheer loudly when you arrive.

Facilities:

Fresh water on site, hole in the ground toilets, luxury onsen walkable. Ooooh, mixed sex outdoor onsen a short drive away! Alcoholic drinks available from whoever chooses to set up a stall, also some food, including veggie, on site, chai, coffee, biscuits etc and clothing, jewellery, crafts and percussion instruments etc on sale. Conbini and supermarkets a short drive away and alcohol shop in Akamizu down the hill.

Words like 'peaceful', 'friendly' and 'chilled' describe but do not seem to be adequate for Aso. If you go, keep the respectful, generous beauty alive, add your talents, smile and open hand, play with the kids and animals and enjoy what I consider to be the best side of Japan.

The rest of my photographs from this year can be found on the Internet. Go to www.clubphoto.com and type in my email address sugarpussy3000@yahoo.co.uk There are two albums from Aso there.

Love, Caroline.